Logan Niles
While driving cross country from Germany to Jutland, Denmark it’s hard to imagine that pork is the main stay of the Danish diet. With nary a pig in sight amidst the wild lilac bushes, horse pastures, Lego Land and the constant whirl of electricity producing windmills, Denmark leads the industry in green wind power equipment manufacturing by the way, it makes one wonder where all of that pork comes from?
Such thoughts quickly faded away as our hosts, old family friends, greeted us with a late breakfast spread worthy of Holger Danske, the sleeping Danish warrior. Now I’m not much of a breakfast person but in the face of such a delicious Koldt Bord, an assortment of cold, sliced meats, cheeses, vegetables, pork pates and seafood spreads, along with a multitude of jams and breads I was hooked. In Denmark the open face sandwich or Smørrebrød is king be it for breakfast, lunch or a quick snack. Your Smørrebrød can be made on moist, thinly sliced rye bread (always buttered!) know as rugbrød but may also be featured on any of the crisp rolls common to Danish bakeries.
The crowning jewel is a taste of true Danish pastry served individually or in the shape of an open circle with its golden edges rolled inwards towards the filling. After seven years of hearing my husband denounce what I knew of as “Danish Pastry” as unworthy imitators of the flaky sweets he survived on twenty-five years ago as an exchange student, I was more than a little eager for the “real deal”. As promised, the flaky, buttery pastry was spectacular and a very far cry from the overly frosted, often soggy and rarely flaky Danishes most of us are used to. For our first breakfast we were treated to a ring of pastry meant to be sliced and shared at the table. Filled with a sweet cream reminiscent of French pastry cream but richer in color and egg yolks combined with dollops of white icing demarking each serving. It was well worth the wait.
Granted not every visitor to Denmark will have the opportunity to eat so well in a private home and if it does happen it is a special event for all reserved for visiting guests and family. Though eating out is a luxury for most Danes, due to high prices, it’s a must for most tourists. One thing to keep in mind is that Denmark has opted not to join the EU so your buying power with the Danish kroner will not go as far as your Euros will within neighboring EU countries; so do budget accordingly. Eating out will also be particularly hard for vegetarians since Denmark’s cuisine is heavily meat based and it’s not unusual to have seemingly vegetarian items like potatoes or cabbage cooked with meat fats or bits of pork.
If it’s meat you crave though you will have many options from plump sausages to cutlets, roasts or Smørrebrød piled high for a hearty mid-day lunch or filling dinner, you will not be left wanting. On route to Kronborg castle in Helsignor we ate a great lunch at a local eatery; one of many which lined the cobble stoned pedestrian walk through the center of town. Shop doors stood open to the Spring weather displaying curred meats, incredible local and imported cheeses from around the world and stylish clothing beckoning visitors and locals alike to take a look inside or sample a taste. It was a great way to take in the full measure of Danish cuisine where stinky cheese on sweet rye bread is cherished along with a nice cold beer or shot of icy Aquavit.
Even if you can’t get to Denmark any time soon there’s no reason why you can’t create your own Koldt Bord feast at home. Most grocery stores carry the wonderful bricks of the thinly sliced rye bread you’ll need to create your Smørrebrød and the rest can be left up to your imagination. With grocery chains like Loblaws now carrying vegetarian pates and tofu spreads the vegetarians in your life with have just as much fun creating their own delicious masterpieces right along side you.
Tak !


